Disclaimer: this text is not a guide and will be of little use to tourists. I will take you through my mystical experience with metaphors, sensations, coincidences. Those seeking academic knowledge about the cult of Hecate will not find it here either, but will be able to enter her flow. Let's begin!
The sacred volcanic island of Samothraki emerges in the Aegean Sea, standing as one of Greece's two highest peaks. Here, free-roaming goats outnumber inhabitants, and the island harbors more hidden secrets than those that have been unveiled.
Samothraki is famous for the winged statue of Nike, displayed in the Louvre. She was found in the local temple complex, the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, but did not play a major role in it. For centuries, sailors and important people of the past gathered here to participate in the Cabirian Mysteries, dedicated to the triad: Demeter, Persephone and Hades. While not explicitly mentioned, Hecate, existing between the lines and worlds, played a pivotal, albeit silent, role. It was she who, attuned to Demeter's cry, descended into Tartarus to negotiate with Hades and orchestrate the rescue of Persephone.
In 2014, a vivid dream painted the picture of me diving in a white dress at the waterfall of the Fonia River on Samothraki Island. Intrigued, I planned a route from Thessaloniki to Samothrace. However, like many other endeavors, I deferred it for nine years, avoiding the beckoning call of fate, choosing instead to exist in a half-asleep state.
During the autumn of 2023, I immersed myself in a series of lectures by Katya Dice and Olga Fire walk with me, unraveling the mysteries of the three-faced goddess. It was then that the purpose behind my long-delayed journey to Samothraki became clear. In the Zerinth cave on the island, dogs, the sacred animals of Hecate, were traditionally sacrificed to join her. Here, I've resolved to conduct my first ritual in her honor (no animals were harmed)
Tel Aviv — Thessaloniki — Alexandroupolis
Seated in the fifth row of the plane on my Tel Aviv to Thessaloniki flight, reading "Hekateon" by Jack Greil, a practical guide to rituals and a compendium of knowledge about the liminal Titan from the Magical Greek Papyri. As I dive into the details of Hecate's aspects and epithets, an Orthodox Greek priest occupies the seat beside me. The symbolism deepens when I connect this moment to Aleister Crowley's Tarot of Thoth, where the fifth arcana is the Hierophant, a priest bearing a key—an emblem strongly associated with Hecate. Notably, the card also features a woman holding a torch and the Moon. While conventionally interpreted as the High Priestess or Venus, I choose to perceive her as Hecate-Selene.
My journey unfolded spontaneously, and upon landing in Thessaloniki, I discovered the address of my rented accommodation on Plutarch Street. The synchronicity of the location struck me—the very street named after Plutarch, who played a pivotal role in resurrecting Hecate from centuries of obscurity and returning her to the realm of collective knowledge.
In the same evening, I witnessed a vibrant Orthodox rally in the city. The participants, adorned with crosses and posters, exuded an energy that felt more akin to a lively gathering, if not an outright rave, than a traditional protest. Intrigued, I approached a woman holding an icon, who had momentarily separated from the procession, and inquired about the nature of the rally.
"It's against the Antichrist!" she exclaimed
Later, I discovered that the fervor was related to the introduction of new ID cards with embedded electronic chips. To believers, this development was seen as the fulfillment of the prophecy of Paisius: a scenario where all people would be numbered with the mark of the devil.
This experience highlighted to me the passionate and powerful nature of Greek belief. It became clear that with such energetic devotees, figures like Hecate, who may have appeared to lose influence over time, still command a profound and impressive presence, reflecting the strength of belief in the region.
It's a well-known fact: Hecate always answers the call. I became certain of this on the very first midnight in Thessaloniki when I left an offering at a crossroads. Almost immediately after I stepped away, a black dog emerged from the darkness. Since that moment, these canine companions have accompanied me at every turn—on the bus to Alexandroupolis, on the ferry to Samothrace, and even in the car I hitch-hiked on the island.
As I reached Alexandroupolis, still a few hours away from the ferry, a call from the concerned receptionist at my Samothrace hotel interrupted my thoughts. A large family faced an unexpected obstacle in boarding the ferry that day, and my room was the only available space to accommodate them. The receptionist asked if I would consider staying in the other hotel for two days. I readily agreed, finding a poetic resonance in the situation. I had just discovered two epithets of Hecate: Enodia, the helper of travelers, and Athalos, the merciful. The coincidence deepened when I learned that my interlocutor's name was Janus. In early Christian concepts, Janus, the two-faced god, is considered the son of the three-faced Hecate.
Samothrace
Stepping off the Alexandroupolis-Samothraki ferry, the customary barking of a black dog creates a familiar background melody. Just as the sound becomes woven into the moment, a rainbow gracefully appears over the island. Inside the reception area, I let my Tarot-trained hand guide me to open the first book I find to a random page. Almost predictably, there She is, revealed under the name Bendis.
Despite my initial expectations of a smooth journey, things took an unexpected turn. I spoke with dozens of local residents, only to discover that none of them had heard of Hecate before, let alone her mysterious cave. However, as they uttered her name aloud, I sensed a ripple effect across the island. They called their friends, repeating the names of the Titan, and in doing so, seemed to awaken old memories, breathing life back into them and allowing them to reverberate through the space.
The name of the goddess was eclipsed by numerous wars and eventually replaced by a new faith. Despite being only 170 square kilometers (seven times smaller than New York), the island is dotted with over a hundred Orthodox churches. Yet, echoes of the ancient beliefs persist. At crossroads, small Christian shrines now stand, reminiscent of those once dedicated to Hecate
Finally, fortune smiled upon me: a young girl named Efrosinya referred to her friend as "a strange lady who hugs trees and knows everything." This intriguing lady generously provided me with the contact information of her scientist friend who has been making an annual pilgrimage to the island for two decades, compiling knowledge for a book about Hecate and knowing all about he caves. However, in September, the scientist happened to be in Switzerland and confirmed what I had already sensed: "You will have to return to Samothrace."
Waterfalls of the Fonia River
The moment had arrived to fulfill the will of Hecate, as revealed to me in a dream nine years ago. Rising early in the morning, while the entire island slumbered, I embarked on a simple trek to the first waterfall—no one in sight. There, amidst the quiet surroundings, I changed into a white dress, dove into the icy waters, and, teeth chattering, made my way back to land. In the midst of this solitary ritual, I suddenly felt the gaze of an unseen observer. A young man stood frozen on the other side of the river, evidently taken aback. Imagine heading to a waterfall, the guard assuring you're the first, only to encounter a girl in a white dress emerging from the cascading waters.
I get onto the rock, basking in the rays of the lingering warmth of the September sun. Georgos waits, anticipating if I'll offer him to chose a magic crystal, that will shape the trajectory of his future. With half-closed eyelids, I observe with curiosity as a naked, sun-kissed young man immerses himself in the cold water and swiftly returns, a hint of nervousness evident. He grazes his knee, and drops of blood appear on the wet skin.
The seemingly ageless Georgos revealed that he is already 30 years old, yet he remains uncertain about the reason for his frequent visits to the island. He shares that he sleeps in a tent in the forest, near the Temple of Apollo. Our conversations weave through the mystical connections between Hecate and the moon goddess Artemis, who is the sister of Apollo. We delve into the intriguing tales of Apollo's three births and two deaths. As we ascend to higher river rapids, submerge beneath cascading waterfalls, and dry off on the sun-warmed rocks, our discussions continue, accompanied by the rhythmic presence of the inescapable goats.
Ritual of Hecate
Throughout the entirety of the journey, I was leaving offerings at crossroads during transitional hours—midnight, dawn, and sunset. Every time, Hecate provided unmistakable feedback: barking dogs, three black crows, flashes of light, and swirling water. In an attempt to immerse myself fully in the essence of each epithet, I lit fires akin to Brimo — Enraged, growled like Therobromos — Voice of the Beast, and collected garbage as Borborophorba —Dirt Eater, among others.
On the final night on the island, during the 29th lunar day, I conducted the main ritual. The ceremony, while not vastly distinct from rites dedicated to other goddesses, followed a familiar structure:
Setting up and cleansing the space
Offerings
Calling on power
Divination
This ritual was particularly unique and unsettling for me. I felt a sense of thrill, not due to overwhelming sensations, but rather the conspicuous absence of them. Typically, I can keenly sense the moment when a potent force is at play; it's so powerful that it's impossible to ignore. However, in this instance, it seemed as though nothing was happening.
It took me some time to realize that the ritual had, in fact, begun the moment I boarded the plane. The force accompanied me every step of the way, becoming such a familiar companion that I had already forgotten what it was like to be without it. Like in all good stories, I found what I was looking for and it had been with me from the very beginning.
Now, I will share the primary outcome of this journey—the message from Hecate. It was conveyed to me in a remarkably clear and earthly image: I envisioned an immense, boundless task tracker. The Goddess possesses the strength and energy to generously reward those who fulfill her will. She harbors grand plans and seeks those who are receptive and capable. If you've read this text, chances are you can already sense her call. Pay heed and listen.
χαῖρε Ἑκάτη
χαῖρε Ἑκάτη
χαῖρε Ἑκάτη
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